(NMACC 2023) India In Fashion Exhibit : Night of Indian Couture.

• – By RaydeN

Nita Mukesh Ambani Culture Centre (NMACC) Founded by Nita Ambani is a “ Sensory Journey of India’s rich Culture History through Costume, Performing, Fine arts, Theater, Visual Arts etc.” ( A Concept similar to The Met Gala, with regards to The exhibition open for general public ) The Formal Launch took place on 31st March 2023, as A Theatric Performance night by Feroz Abbas khan play The Great Indian Musical: Civilizations to nation opening grand theater spaces wind on preforming art in India from OM to leading creation of India, story unfold in spectacle of Act, Dance & Music Witnessed by A Listers Around the World.

India in fashion

Whereas Day 2, 1st April took the Internet by Storm. The celebration of the Exhibit Opening ( Curated by Hamish Bowels & Designed by Patrick Kinmonth & Rooshad shroff ) Along with Red Carpet appearance by A listers Around the world followed by Indian Paparazzi’s, Bollywood Performances, Highlights & shades that Followed after.

NMACC managed to Keep everyone Entertained & super glued to their phones in FOMO. A Lister In Attendance did managed to serve Absolute Looks rich in Indian Culture, Indian Couture, Textile & dressed By Indian designers creating A Full circle to India in Fashion. Major Highlights from Indian Textile, Embroidery, Technique, Tradition & personalities were Confidentially walked over the carpet. Some designers being the repetitive choice of the Night Rahul Mishra, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Anamika Khanna were Breathtaking in there Creations.

Best Dressed of Indian Couture

Zendaya in Rahul Mishra, Gigi Hadid in Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Sonam Kapoor in Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla or Kriti Sanon in Monisha Jaising were Personal Favorites at the NMACC as they Definitely Lived the Night of Indian Couture Ate Fashion & Culture Left No Crumps.

Breaking down the Fashion silhouettes representing India In fashion at NMACC.

India in Fashion

Sari

India in Fashion has Always had Immense Resignation for Sari & will continue to hold that never letting it go out of style. The 6 yards of fabric being versatile as per the wearer taste can be draped over 100 ways each holding a Specific silhouette, textile, art from each state of India with diversity in Indian Climate. Indian tradition that is kept intact from textile being rich in artisanal crafts, to the kind of drape Sari is treasured Indian Couture of Indian families which Continues its legacy even before the tailoring was introduced. Concept of Sari though blurred from where exactly it originated, it surely developed in India referencing back from the Vedic culture.

Timeline of wearing Sari may have varied but the intricate details in textile & embroidery modernizes with current trends, colours & region oriented Prints like Animals, Floral , Inscription, Colour Bands heavy Embordered border in antiques etc still experiment on the traditional. Donning sari is a symbol of promoting culture, pride & patriotism for the nation that has stunning aesthetic admire by people.

Gigi Hadid in Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla at NMACC

Gigi Hadid in Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla look took the NET by storm at the NMACC, as the Model & designer duo Managed to bring out the Opulence in Indian couture through the Ivory Chikankari Draped sari for which it took over a year to make by the artisan specialized in each stich that is embroidered on the fabric. The technique utilized is well known embroidery of Lucknow which was popularizes during the Mughal era usually done on semi translucent fabric like organza & others so that once embroidered created the outline & shadow effect.

Blouse & Jewellery Heavily inspired by the south Culture reminiscing the importance of Gold that hold Indian couture at any event, How Indian Couture is celebrated Adorned in Jewels when it comes to Indian family. The Kamasutra detailed Bangles adding insane touch to the Indian look whereas the choli looking like a breast plate. A perfect balance of Traditional & modern pulled through giving Divine Strength of Femininity & Elegance. A dazzling Glamour of beauty of creates & soulfulness of Devine Spirit.

Zendaya in Rahul Mishra at NMACC

Zendaya in Rahul Mishra was another Jaw dropping moment at the NMACC & it brought the Best of Indian Couture, Zendaya has previously wore Rahul Mishra & let just say she never steps the foot wrong when it comes to serving a look. The customized look from the Cosmo collection details of traditional sari as thick borders at the hem in fabric Sheer creating depth to the sari with signature Rahul Mishra embroideries a couture jungle with tiger, squirrels, flamingo as they look up in sky the way world looks to sky to experience beauty. was nice ( but some how I feel embroidery at the hem did miss as it was getting folded or the look was getting compromised ) but the trail did managed to rock the amalgamation of Indian n westerns culture. The edge of the Blouse in 3d gold couldn’t get any belter. 3k hrs. that went to compete the set gives a nod to core philosophy & Slow fashion & intent to empower Indian craft.

Alia Bhatt in Vaishali S at NMACC

Vaishali S is one of the very few Designers in India who has Such a strong Stance when it come to Textiles, the way she has her own textile give soul to everything She creates One of her Look at NMACC pull by Alia Bhatt was Insane. Those Hand woven drape on silver Maheshwari silk that hade piping kind of detail on the Pallu redefined pleats that are made while wearing a sari keeping the look very minimal & clean. The fact that Silver looks looks tin foil Diy Tacky on most carpet was clear what this look was not, so ethereal & best of Indian couture westernizing with the corset fit Swarovski blouse was pure grace , the touch of Arm band was genius beauty.

Karishma Kapoor in Sabhyasachi at NMACC

Karishma Kapoor didn’t really experiment with sari, but the look is also not disappointing for it look’s impressive 1) as its black letting embroidery to shine, 2) looks crisp making it royal timelsess for the night. This look was what a princess would wear for her Portrait ( an editorial look Sported in historic times) . best of Indian Couture for being Classic timeless.

Rekha the Evergreen Fashion Icon of India Took everyone’s breath away as she walked in a Traditional Yet Timeless Take of Sari. Keeping the Banaras Fabric the star Along with the Jewellery adding detailed touch Made the Look Sophisticated Yet Minimalizing the Tradition. Mattha Patti & Gajra Tiny accesorisation that blew the look with so much dept.

Sonam Kapoor in JJ Valays

Its A pleasure that Sonam Kapoor Exist , apart from having her Own Style She Does know What she is doing When it Comes to fashion. She Experimented Sari with Designers JJ Valays in terms of Silhouette, Choli & drape were Enhanced to be Served as Cape Gown Sari that Stayed So minimal & Modest in Beige with the Subtle touch of Printed Fabric jutting out from the plates forming Pallu Highlighted & Accentuated the Sari Element of Indian couture without looking too busy.

Laxmi Menon

Best of Indian Couture was surely brought by Indian Models Much better Than Many Celebrities Present. I Mean They were exactly the one who ate & left No Crumps for the Bollywood celebs. Laxmi Menon in Nude pink kanjiveram sari ( another Textile popular from Karnataka ) wore Sari draped in Corgi style, A corgi style sari has pleats going back to front bring the pallu to the front on right shoulder, typically this style of sari is wore without blouse & as per comfort level its 100. Women in western Ghats do spot this sari as is comfy to climb the hill. she highlighted the sari with her mom’s broch rebuilt the piece of jewelry showing inheritance & sustainability in the Look.

Lehenga

In Ancient India Lehenga were 3 Piece set Antaria ( Strip of fabric Passed through the leg & tucked in he back) Uttariya (Veil worn over head/Shoulder) Satanapatta ( chest band). Later evolving into current Lehenga choli with the Arrival of Mughal in 12 ce. Lehengas stays Bejeweled till Ankle-length would give married status of women’s as they carried veil. Tribal women on the other hand would keep the length till knee’s to ankle for ease of moment. As Time aged Lehenga choli got restricted by Rural women with the increase in popularity of sari spotted by freedom fighters , this transition stayed quite for a long time until 1990 when designers brought back. Variation introduced through western culture lead to fusion of indo-western designs like, lehenga sari , lehenga gown, lehenga anarkali etc , are vivid ways of modern lehenga.

Sonam Kapoor in Abu Jani & Sandeep khosla at NMACC

Another impressive look by Sonam Kapoor in Abu jani and Sandeep Khosla was a celebration of 25 yrs relationship between Her and the designer duo. Construction of this Lehenga is beautiful. Kali made on Gajji silk represent each kali the house has creates since 1980. Playing complex art and craft. From different zari work, Resham , Surface Embellishment & more. The Vibrancy in Colour & Unmatched/ Unevenness of the panel is Such A Fun Standout & refreshing. Experimenting Mughal motif of flowers, geometry & intricacy. Corset in vasli and Swarovski work just perfect to not take away the Shine of lehenga with gold and silver embroidered dupatta is well eased. Justifying Sonam to be a perfect Muse for the brand.

Neelam Gill in Gaurav Gupta at the NMACC

Neelam Gill at NMACC modernized best of Indian couture in Pyramid Sculpture lehenga as Gaurav Gupta calls it. This Gaurav Gupta creation skirt being the architectural brilliance almost looking like a ballgown modernized lehenga version embroidery being delicate glass bugle creating starland. Another look in metallic silver that not just kept it’s brand identity but also managed to pull the sense of style of the wearer.

Liza Koshy in Papa Don’t Preach at the NMACC

If there was anyone who was crazy excited to wear Indian designer, it sure was Liza Koshy. Papa Don’t preach mermaid style first Bridal gown ( steps away from conventional bride ) that Liza wore apart from a take on Indian lehenga & westernizing it did started a conversation over the label that play homage to the artists behind the scenes. The concept was inspired by Dutch trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort who in Anti Fashion Manifesto wrote ” it takes an army to create a single garment yet the label only has brand name.” The dupatta having a 20″ labels with all karigar’s name whether liked or disliked by people ( with the inconvenience for dragging it everywhere she went, some calling it gimmick. ) he look surely was interesting and well executed.

Skirts

India in fashion managed to incorporate skirt in different forms, depending on the civilization, region, culture influence skirts have managed to variate in terms of length, Drapes, fabric and embellishments. Styled with choli, Sari, lehenga etc.

Shibani Akhtar in Anamika Khanna at the NMACC

There has always been a pure editorial element in a look worn by Shibani. At NMACC she brought best of Indian couture in a beautiful Anamika Khanna creation the cape style Set Choli look, a grunge glamour colourful patches, elaborate Drapes, intricate beading, sequences, embossing pearls, creating dimension over the body, the deconstruction & layering. Further Taken Up A Notch by Oxidized Banjara tribe inspired Jewelry ( Banjara tribe of Mewar India preeminent trading community, Gor Banjara resend from Rajput ) Muted Classiness of the look being Fashion Forwards Anamika clearly knows how to play with silhouette not shy away from haphazard pattern, result mesmerizing creations. ( Personally for me designing & fashion Should Not be restricted to embroideries as it gets boring but when I saw some of her work at the NMACC exhibit, & instantly adore it for it was not just embroideries But more than that). The Delicacy in the Look yet the Clear Detail & over all Styling Prefect. As she Once Said ” An Open field for experimentation, An awareness of the Spectacular Indian Silhouettes, Textile & sentiments, We Move to amalgamate something Old, Something New.”

Caroline Daur In Anamika Khanna at the NMACC

Caroline Daur also Carried Anamika Khanna beautifully her look was much more modern at the Skirt with the colour pallet & drape that continued to follow Traditional pallu. Showing the versatility of Skirts ( Women in India do play with length & drapes of skirt depending upon the region & flexibility of Work, Captured Perfectly her in this Look) letting the Garment take the Centre stage , keeping jewelry minimal is quite a realistic approach of how young women style themselves incorporating tradition & trends. As Anamika once said, ” There are 3-4 thoughts I had before I Started This Collection, The One Thought was that when you observe the world you see how people are dressing, everybody ids doing their own thing, That whole concept that ‘ This Is What I’m Going To Wear’ is not working. Everyone wants to make a statement. There are no rules….. The Second thing was that I do not want to let go of what is precious & beautiful in India. I belong here & I know that we are Privlleged people to have the kind of Crafts & textile we have at our disposal. Plus, the common Thread that each one of us has things in our Grandmother’s trunk or something that our mothers have stored. Perhaps it’s a beautiful Muslin but it is Shredded to pieces. The fact that its still luxury, it is still beautiful, you can’t let it go. This time i am saying that it is okay to own it as it is, So what if it is shredded to pieces? “

Kurta pants

Mughal Era Dress-code incorporated Three piece Suit reminiscing of their Persian heritage Peshwaj ( Robe dress/ tunic) Pajama ( pants) Patka (sash). These pieces been quite regular pieces of wearing transitioning from day to night, & other task for both men & women . Experimenting in Textile, embroidery, Cut & more, Adorned with Jewelry. Further integration with the Indian /Population brought about the Silhouette of modern Lehenga. Further more In time designer around the worlds experimented over theses pieces now know as Salwar, Kamiz, dupatta. Have variation in form of Anarkali, Sharara, Garara, Farshi ETC..

Deepika Padukone in Anamika Khanna at NMACC

India In Fashion Wont Be justified if not celebrated the Kurta to an Event. Although Deepika Padukone is wearing Jacket, Pant & Cape by Anamika Khanna, The Silhouette/ look surely pulls the aesthetic to kurta, pajama, Dupatta in much modern way. The Ivory Gold Ensemble ( A go to Colour Palate of India) captures the Rich, Royal Essence of kurta set. An Elegant look that Speak for itself Such Modesty& Timeless reality. putting Silhouette & craft On Full Display Though staying minimal on Accessorization. A look Pulled Through Flawlessly.

Gigi Hadid in Rahul Mishra at NMACC

If there was Any one who did Best of Indian Couture along with Soonam Kapoor It Surely was Gigi Hadid, She Nailed it. Long Jacket style with Sharara kind of pants created by Rahul Mishra was subtle yet hard to miss. Sheerness added layers of embroidery, Rendition of Himalayan Spring Through sequin, bead work not only capture the heaven of India, but also the Flora & fauna through the Craft letting it Sine in its Centre stage. The way embrodery is not getting busy but crafting a gradient of Sheer wore to almost crating kamar-band kind of bloc to finally merging with the bottom embroidery in giant flowers never gets busy? Too much pop/ trying with Rahul Mishra, effortlessly Chic & impactful. well executed look.

Sherwani

Sherwani originated in 18 Ce in South Asia, Originally associated with Muslim aristocracy during British rule. Developing in 19 CE Balaba western name with button-down evolved from Persian cape to Indian angarkha as European court style, court dress of Turks & Persian. Sherwani now being traditionally worn wedding signify prestige etiquette nobility. Sherwani are generally long, flared at hip. Achkan shorter in length formally worn in winter in Rajasthan Punjab Delhi Hyderabad evolved to Nehru jacket worn with Pants, churidar, salwar, pajama.

Law roach can NEVER execute anything wrong. ( Me who personally adores work a pleasure to witness his vision ) Law wore Rahul Mishra in a Shirley Poppy Sherwani Paired with Lehenga Skirt is Androgynies & a pieces of art how the Minimal look is , lavishly so extravagant rich in Indian embroidery not getting lost or eaten up by embroideries. If there is any one who know best to play with embroiderers it surly is Rahul Mishra. A Stunning Canvas to emphasize silhouette & bring Embroiders to Show Best of Indian Couture.

Athiya Shetty in Anamika Khanna

Athiya Shetty Having Great Sense of Personal Style carried Anamika Khanna deconstructed jacket creation in Achromatic look Modernizes in high-low forming a trail paired with straight pants is Editorial at best so youthful & fun Holding Old Essence With modern approach. Elegant Yet Striking. Getting So obsessed with Anamika’s Work. This Duo Is EXCELLENCE. for sure India in Fashion & brought Best of Indian Couture.

Karan Johar in Rahul Mishra

Karan Johar has a great Sense of style when it comes to Colour Black, I mean When’s the last time he was not wearing Black & didn’t nailed it. Keeping the base minimal in a Shirt & pant Letting this Rahul Mishra Sherwani Jacket take the Centre Stage in Bridi Embroidery Is Royal & well thought of. Taking back to the Court from the past in a modern way with his High Fashion Sunglasses Another Thing he is Hardly Seen Without.

Bhumika Arora in Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla

Models INDIAN model, Breath taking. Bhumika Arora in Multi coloured Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla Jacket from 2010 another archival piece from the brand. Multicolor Sequence, Stone, Resham , mogul motif from Flowers to Geometry, abstract multi panel Design a rich Best of Indian Culture Portrait in Timeless royal Narration.

To be honest it wasn’t a disappointment for the first carpet of NMACC, For the Major Serves that were Pulled both by Indian & international attendees. Usual the people who Could have done Better tried. Efforts were Surely made. On other side of Spectrum The Ones who Could have pulled Were Suffering due to the Designer they wore. ( I wish Manish Malhotra could have sticked to Stage or utilized something from his Bollywood career for the Celebrities & created a Moment, nut no made wearer look older than their age, Coz it was neither elegant nor Fitting properly, no offence ) This Article is part 1 For NMACC: India in fashion where it break down more of Tradition Best Of Indian Couture. Part 2 Hold an Editorial Breakdown of other looks By the attendees.

next article holds the looks that were best of Indian editorial styles at the NMACC do check it out.

Do Visit NMACC Exhibit For the Experience & India in Fashion. you Wont Regret.